Community (1 of 4)

Community

Department of Sud, Ti Legliz Village

Eventually they reach a plateau and the path fades into a small pasture, shaded by fir trees. There are a few well maintained homes arranged in a cluster around a one-story chapel which anchors the town square. This community isn’t on any maps but has as many inhabitants as any other village that’s not been dechokajed into oblivion. Jè maneuvers around the goats that wander into the path with their fence collars. Most Haitian communities follow a similar approach to protect crops from wandering goats. Gardeners surround their plots with meter high fence posts, but no wire. Goat owners put triangular wooden harnesses around each goat’s neck. The goats can travel freely anywhere except into the gardens surrounded by fence poles.

Jè parks the Geo near the path they just climbed. He backs the little SUV into a small grove of trees that hide another track leading down the mountain to Highway 1. As they’re getting out of the SUV and deciding what to carry with them toward the chapel, two Haitian men and a woman approach them from another grove of trees that Kevin hadn’t noticed when they arrived. A fourth person remains in the grove and Kevin thinks he sees the glint of a rifle scope. The trio approaches and Kevin recognizes one of the young priests from the Mother Mary house. Kevin’s face breaks into a grin. “Father Jean”? Jean is probably the second most common Haitian name, but Kevin remembers that this priest was educated in France. They’d shared some favorite songs from Les Miserables during Kevin’s last visit. He meets the priest’s outstretched hand, shakes it firmly and asks again, “Father Jean Valjean, do you have a loaf of bread for a blan?” The young Haitian priest starts laughing and hums his favorite verse.

Code phrase dealt with; Kevin introduces Jè to Father Jean. They shake hands as Father Jean continues. “Welcome to Ti Legliz. I’d like to introduce Solange and Panielle, who are village leaders. If you need anything and can’t find me, consider them to be me.” Solange is thin and a bit shorter than Jè. She has the smooth features of a young woman but watchful eyes that seem much older. Her braided hair is tied into a tight bun behind her head under a NY Yankees ball cap. She’s wearing a dark t-shirt, traditional Haitian skirt, leggings and leather sandals. Fr. Jean, “Solange grew up near Cap Haitian, ran afoul of their Macoutes, then stayed with friends in Latin America for a while. Now she’s joined us here in the south as,” Fr. Jean makes air quotes with his fingers, “Organizer Solange”. Grinning widely, “She speaks English and Spanish. Do you have any Spanish, Kevin?” Kevin gives a little laugh and says apologetically, “Just whatever I’ve forgotten from high school.” Solange chuckles, “Don’t worry. You’ll learn it when you need it.” Kevin quickly replies, “That’s what they said about Creole!”

Father Jean waits for everyone to stop laughing, smiles broadly and gestures to Panielle, “This is our scholar from Paris.” Panielle slowly smiles under his straw fedora-style hat. He has a hint of a mustache, wears round glasses, an untucked dress shirt, and dark dress pants over black boots. He also has a sheathed machete resting on the seat next to him. Fr. Jean continues, “We met in Paris a long time ago. Panielle, why don’t you tell everyone why you’re here.” Panielle clears his throat and glances around the table, “I’m here to plant trees, honestly. A Canadian NGO has been reforesting Thiotte with legume trees that grow a half meter a year. Their grant money runs out this year, so they’ve trained Haitian organizers to continue the work all over the country. It’s really our last chance to get out of the tree, charcoal, cooking cycle. That UN experiment with little propane camp stoves was a total failure. Propane burns too hot and ruins the Haitian style of rice and beans. Now the empties are bobbing around in the Caribbean.”

Kevin looks around the table and sees everyone shaking their heads sadly. With a bemused expression he asks, “But in a few years the new trees could reforest the country, right?”. Panielle looks at Kevin in confusion until Father Jean gently explains, “Sustainable forestry interferes with the charcoal cartel. They just call out the old Macoute death squads who target our organizers and agronomists. Then they cut down all the trees and punish the village.” Kevin looks around the table, “Of course! Sorry about that. I shouldn’t have needed the explanation. But Gracias!”

Solange grins and replies, “De nada! We’re all learning all the time.” They start getting up from the table as Father Jean adds, “We have an entire country on the run. Until the Aristide government can root out the Macoutes in local government, organizers like Solange and Panielle are in hiding where the police informants don’t know them. It’s why you won’t meet many of our local agronomists and organizers. They’re all out hiding in other provinces.” Panielle adds, “It’s very difficult to be away from family but it’s safest for everyone. We’re cross-pollinating knowledge though, so maybe it’s for the best.”